Comprising four interconnected nogou' (hamlets) — Al-Hurubat,
Atiyat, Al-Ghabat, Al-Hasasna — the village conglomerate of Gurna
is the most densely populated part of the west bank of the Nile in Luxor
— the site of the Theban necropolis. And evacuating it has proved
to be a major undertaking, second only to evacuating Nubia prior to its
submersion in Lake Nasser in the course of building the Aswan High Dam.
Two weeks after the "celebrations" broadcast on satellite television
— pretty girls in ancient Egyptian outfits dancing around while
the mud brick houses were being bulldozed into oblivion —
villagers like Mohamed El-Tayib, a tour guide, are voicing discontent:
"you think these girls are from Gurna? Well, they're from Luxor. The
celebration a show put on by others — nothing to do with Gurna or
its people..."
While the move was being planned, indeed, incipient meetings had
excluded all but the most affluent villagers, as El-Tayib explained, who
could afford houses bigger than the 150 sq m units provided to each
family in Al-Taref (or New Gurna, five kilometres away). This was the
main complaint: in Upper Egypt large, often extended, families will
normally occupy a single space, and Gurna villagers are concerned that,
with up to seven children (not to mention grandchildren) in each family,
a 150 sq m space would not be enough for comfortable living. Nabawiya
El-Garani, a member of one of the first four families to be moved on the
occasion of the "celebration", has been told by City Council officials
that she should expect to be moved again. "Why make me leave my home if
they are going to move me again," she asked rhetorically. "I like it
here. But without a contract I live in fear of what will come next."
Unreliable as it remains, running water has spared her the uphill
journey, undertaken every other day, to fill troughs carried on a
donkey-pulled cart; and with furniture (donated), her new home is an
improvement on the last. Yet she cannot fully enjoy any of it knowing
she must move again...
A place to stay,
Pierre Loza, Al-Ahram, Egypt, Issue No. 824, December 14 - 20, 2006.
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