Luxor may be home to some of the world's most amazing archaeological
sites, and yet it is an undervalued city. Hordes of tourists are run in
and out of Luxor International Airport, their itineraries barely giving
them enough time to visit the most important tombs and temples, let
alone the nooks and crannies of the archaeological treasure trove that
was ancient Thebes, and the many people that also make this city worth
visiting. "One day on the East Bank and one day on the West Bank, a
traditional Egyptian food buffet at their five-star hotel and perhaps a
galabiya party or a belly-dancer and their off," explains a tour
operator early in the morning, as he pulls his party together and I wait
for our luggage. Other than the Japanese, it seems that most visitors
prefer to spend more time enjoying the Red Sea beaches and considering
perceived security concerns, the arrangement seems to suit all
involved.
This would be fine if it did not so horribly misrepresent the city.
Our taxi ferries take us down the road towards our hotel: lush green
palms stand out against the clear blue sky, men in white galabiyas
perched on donkeys slow down our progress and we take in the
façade of newly painted traditional mud homes — a recent,
much-debated decision of the head of the Luxor City Council towards
revamping the city. Soon, we arrive at the long, one-car bridge that
will take us onto Crocodile Island and the Mövenpick Resort.
Now, I would also be dissatisfied to reduce Luxor to any of the many
five-star hotels that string its East Bank, but I will have to start
here. My parents brought me almost every year for as long as I can
— or would like — to remember. And today, every year I pack
up my girls and bring them here too...